WATCHES BY THE COUNTRY

The Watchmakers of China

From state factories that timed a revolution to Shenzhen ateliers chasing Swiss perfection — China is rewriting the meaning of “Made in China.”

China’s horological story begins in the 1950s, when state-sponsored factories such as Seagull and Shanghai pioneered domestic mechanical watch production. Within a few decades, the country had become the single largest producer of watch movements on Earth — a manufacturing juggernaut whose components quietly powered watches the world over, often without credit.

But the modern chapter is far more interesting than sheer volume. Today the Chinese industry spans an enormous spectrum: from technically sophisticated mass-produced calibers to a thriving Shenzhen-based independent scene where artisans craft haute horlogerie that genuinely rivals the Swiss masters. A new generation of design-forward microbrands is reshaping global perceptions, transforming a label once shorthand for cheapness into one increasingly associated with craft, ambition, and cultural pride.

The Heritage Houses

Shanghai Watch (founded 1955) was once dubbed the “Rolex of China,” the prestige timepiece of choice for Chinese leaders including Mao Zedong and Zhou Enlai. After decades as a national institution, the brand relaunched in 2008 with dials by noted designer Eric Giroud, reasserting its place at the historical heart of Chinese horology.

FIYTA (founded 1987) represents the industry’s modern, outward-facing ambition. China’s only publicly listed watch company and the official timekeeper of the nation’s space program, FIYTA developed the country’s first astronaut watch in 2003. It pairs genuine in-house R&D with a sprawling nationwide retail presence and growing international distribution.

The New Wave: Design-Forward Microbrands

Atelier Wen (founded 2018) is the Shanghai-rooted darling of the enthusiast world, celebrated for blending Chinese cultural aesthetics with high-end finishing — including hand-guillochéd dials produced by what the brand describes as the only master guillocher working in mainland China. Its Perception integrated-bracelet sport watch has drawn serious international critical acclaim.

CIGA Design (founded 2012) leads with bold industrial design, having collected multiple Red Dot and iF Design Awards. With accessible pricing and visually striking cases, CIGA has become a popular gateway for younger collectors taking their first step into Chinese watchmaking.

San Martin (founded 2016), based in Dongguan and founded by veteran enthusiast Liao JiaMing, has evolved from its homage roots into a respected original-design label. Collectors single it out for exceptional case finishing, robust construction, and value that punches well above its price.

The Artisans and the Playful

Celadon HH (Celadon Haute Horlogerie, founded 2012) sits at the rarefied end of the scene. Founded by Benjamin Chee, it produces bespoke, made-to-order pieces featuring elaborate enamel artworks of Chinese scenes, fitted with movements by independent master Lin Yong Hua. Its motto — “Made in China with Pride” — is a direct rebuttal to old luxury stereotypes.

Lucky Harvey (founded 2021) brings the joy. A young Shenzhen independent founded by Lin Xiaolin, it makes culturally expressive, conversation-starting watches with moving mahjong tiles, dragons, poker cards, and other distinctly Chinese motifs. Where some brands chase gravitas, Lucky Harvey chases delight — and has earned a devoted following for it.

Where to Find Them

China’s watch industry has lived several lives already: revolutionary timekeeper, anonymous global supplier, and now a self-confident creative force with something to prove. The heritage houses carry the memory of a nation’s twentieth century, while the microbrands — from Atelier Wen’s guillochéd dials to Lucky Harvey’s spinning mahjong tiles — argue that the most exciting story in horology may be the one being written right now, in Shanghai and Shenzhen. Keep watching this space.

And at Spot.Watch — that’s always worth noticing.